Does the Turkey Baster Brake Fluid Method Actually Do Anything?

The “turkey baster brake fluid method” refers to using a turkey baster to suck old brake fluid out of your brake fluid reservoir and replace it with new fluid. Some people claim this can improve brake performance, while others argue it’s pointless Let’s take a closer look at whether this turkey baster method does anything meaningful for your brakes

How Brake Systems Work

First, a quick brake system overview. Your brakes work by forcing brake fluid through lines to actuate pistons in the brake calipers. These pistons squeeze the brake pads against the rotor to slow your wheels. Over time brake fluid absorbs water which leads to a few problems

• Lower boiling point – Wet brake fluid boils easier under hard braking when temps spike in the lines. This leads to a soft, spongy pedal.

• Corrosion – Water causes corrosion in the brake lines, calipers and master cylinder. This reduces system integrity over time.

• Compressed fluid – Water takes up more space, which can lead to brakes needing bled more often.

So keeping your brake fluid dry is clearly important. This is why brakes manufacturers recommend flushing your brake system per their service schedule – often every 2 years or so.

The Turkey Baster Method

The turkey baster method involves using a baster to suck old brake fluid out of the reservoir. New fluid is then added to top it off. This supposedly removes some water-contaminated fluid.

It’s a quick and cheap alternative to a full flush. Just squeeze the bulb, stick the tip in the reservoir, release the bulb and extract a few ounces of fluid. Repeat this until a significant amount has been removed, then top off with fresh fluid. That’s the gist of this turkey baster technique.

Does It Actually Help?

There’s some debate around whether the turkey baster method does anything meaningful. Here are some key considerations:

It Only Touches a Small Amount of Fluid

• The reservoir contains only a pint or two of brake fluid total.

• The baster only removes a few ounces with each squeeze.

• So it can’t extract that much of the total contaminated fluid.

The Lines Still Have Old Fluid

• The baster only gets fluid from the reservoir.

• The brake lines still contain the majority of old, compressed fluid.

• So most of the system retains water-contaminated fluid.

It Doesn’t Address Other Issues

• Corrosion and deposits still exist all through the system.

• Old fluid is still compressed from water absorption.

• The boiling point is largely unchanged.

But New Fluid Helps a Little

• New fluid in the reservoir will help keep its boiling point higher.

• So pedal may feel firmer from bled reservoir alone.

• Less water content by volume also helps with corrosion and compression.

The Verdict?

Given the above, the turkey baster method seems to offer minimal benefits at best. It may provide a temporary improvement in pedal feel. But it fails to address deeper issues from old fluid in the calipers and lines.

The consensus among experts seems to be that this technique is not an effective substitute for a proper flush and fluid change. At most, it’s a quick way to buy you some time before a flush becomes absolutely necessary.

When a Full Flush is Needed

To truly refresh your entire brake system, a flush is required on the schedule recommended by your manufacturer. This involves:

• Draining all brake fluid from the master cylinder and lines.

• Refilling with new fluid.

• Bleeding at each wheel to purge all old fluid.

• Confirming proper fluid levels and pedal feel.

Flushing removes all the old contaminated fluid system-wide. It’s the only way to fully resolve issues of water contamination, corrosion, boiling point, and compression.

So while a turkey baster may provide a quick fix, it’s no replacement for a flush when the time comes. Pay close attention to when your manufacturer recommends this important maintenance.

Signs a Brake Flush is Overdue

Don’t let your brakes go too long between flushes. Watch for these signs it’s time to flush the system:

• Brake pedal feels soft or spongy
• Pedal continues sinking lower with continuous presses
• Wheels feel loose when braking hard
• Brakes need bled frequently to firm up pedal
• Brake fluid appears dark, contaminated, or murky

Any of these indicate moisture and corrosion are taking their toll. Flush the fluid and bleed the system to restore peak braking performance. Waiting leads to even costlier repairs down the road.

Safely Flushing Your Brake System

DIY brake flushes are doable with patience and proper precautions:

• Use heavy duty rubber gloves – brake fluid destroys paint.
• Dispose of old fluid properly – it’s hazardous waste when contaminated.
• Check master cylinder fluid as you work – to avoid draining it dry.
• Double-bleed any problem areas – stubborn air gaps hurt performance.
• Check for leaks throughout – damaged lines or seals need fixing.
• Verify pedal feel before driving – soft or spongy feel means continued bleeding.

Take your time and be meticulous. Brake system failure can be catastrophic. Considering the importance of your brakes, a flush at the dealer may be money well spent for peace of mind.

While the turkey baster brake fluid method seems appealing, it offers minimal benefits compared to a proper system flush. At most it buys you a little time and improved pedal feel before a flush becomes necessary. Pay close attention to when your manufacturer recommends this vital maintenance. And take action immediately if you notice any symptoms of contaminated brake fluid. Don’t put it off – fresh fluid keeps you and your family safe.