In the Bon Appétit test kitchen, your first time developing the Thanksgiving turkey recipe is a big deal. A right of passage. Andy Baraghani got the call in 2018. “It was an honor,” Andy told me, “like I’d been nominated for an Oscar.” The bird is the indisputable star of Thanksgiving dinner, and it has a lot of predecessors to live up to—we’ve loved many turkey recipes over the years.
Our 2018 Thanksgiving menu focused on nailing the best-possible versions of classics, and developing the best turkey was no exception. The assignment: a foolproof, always-turns-out-right roast turkey recipe. Every element was obsessed over: crackly skin, juicy interior, actual turkey flavor. In the end, we got this perfect roast turkey, which we’ll break down step-by-step in this handy guide.
Andy’s recipe calls for massaging the bird with dry rub and then letting it chill in the fridge. This technique is called dry-brining; it’s commonly used on chicken, but it’s also essential for a juicy, actually delicious turkey. Here’s how it works: The salt pulls out the liquid trapped in the turkey meat, creating some salty turkey juices that soak back into the bird while it hangs out in the fridge. A whole turkey loses a lot of water when it cooks in the oven, but the salt helps the muscles retain more moisture. That means a dry-brined turkey (and its leftover meat) will stay moist for days.
Why is a dry brine better than a wet brine? Maybe in the past you’ve filled a huge cooler or tub with saltwater, constructing an elaborate dunk tank for the bird. Our opinion: It’s a pain, it’s a mess, and that bucket of wet brine takes up way too much real estate in the refrigerator. Plus, it ends up waterlogging the turkey and diluting its flavor. A dry brine achieves everything a wet brine sets out to, but in a much more user-friendly way.
To dry-brine a turkey, first remove the neck and giblets from the turkey’s cavity, then pat the bird dry all over with paper towels. Andy keeps the dry rub simple with just kosher salt and brown sugar, but you can add other seasonings or spices, like black pepper, garlic powder, or smoked paprika (as in this Expertly Spiced and Glazed Roast Turkey recipe). Don’t skip the sugar, though: In addition to seasoning the bird, the brown sugar in the dry rub caramelizes in the oven, helping the skin develop a golden amber color.
Massage the dry rub all over the bird—outside and inside the cavity—at least 12 hours or up to 2 days before the big day. The salt needs time to permeate that big hulking bird. Let the turkey hang out in the fridge until you’re ready to roast.
While the oven preheats, you’ll rub a whole stick of unsalted butter (important because there’s already lots of salt from the dry brine) on the turkey’s surface, under the skin, and, if there’s any left, inside the cavity. This ensures juicy turkey meat and truly golden brown skin. You’ll need to loosen the skin of the bird to do this. It’s not pretty, but it’s necessary—watch the process here.
Andy doesn’t add any veggies or aromatics to the pan—a few rogue thyme sprigs are more likely to burn in the oven than impart any real flavor. Instead, this Thanksgiving centerpiece gets additional flavor from a sour-sweet glaze. And on that note:
If crispy skin is your goal—and when has it ever not been?—basting is likely to sabotage your mission. Basting the turkey (brushing it or spritzing it with stock or pan juices) introduces moisture back to the skin, rendering it flabby. All that work of dry-brining for nothing! Glazing, on the other hand, introduces a sweetened syrup to the surface of the bird, which will caramelize and turn into a sweet-savory shellac. Result: crispy skin for everyone.
This simple, punchy-herby glaze is made of vinegar, honey, Worcestershire sauce, fresh rosemary, garlic, orange zest, and more butter. While the turkey cooks, paint on the glaze every 30 minutes for a lacquered, cover-worthy sheen.
Brining turkey before roasting became extremely popular because it guarantees a tender, juicy bird But dealing with gallons of saltwater and finding fridge space for a raw brined turkey isn’t always feasible The good news is, with the right techniques, you can absolutely cook a delicious turkey without brining it!
When I first started cooking turkey years ago, I always brined it. I didn’t want to risk ending up with a dried-out bird on Thanksgiving. But after learning alternative methods, I haven’t brined a turkey in ages. In this article, I’ll explain why brining gained popularity, share tips for cooking moist turkey without brining, and walk through a sample roasting timeline.
Why Did Brining Turkey Become So Popular?
Brining involves submerging the raw turkey in a saltwater solution for hours or days before roasting. Through osmosis, the saltwater gets absorbed deep into the meat. This serves two purposes:
- It seasons the turkey throughout.
- It helps the turkey retain moisture as it cooks, preventing it from drying out.
Before brining became widespread, roast turkey often turned out disappointingly dry and bland. Brining created a foolproof way to get tender, well-seasoned white and dark meat.
However dealing with a 10+ pound raw poultry soaking in liquid does have some significant downsides
- It takes up a ton of space in the fridge.
- The waterlogged turkey is messier to handle.
- The saltwater dilutes the natural turkey flavor.
That’s why over the years, cooks have pioneered great techniques for roasting turkey without brining
Tips for Cooking Moist Turkey Without Brining
With the right preparation, you can absolutely cook a juicy, flavorful turkey without brining it first. Here are my top tips:
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Start with a high-quality turkey – Pasture-raised and organic turkey have more flavor and fat to keep the meat moist.
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Dry brine instead of wet brining – Rubbing the turkey with salt and letting it rest in the fridge seasons it without the mess of liquid.
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Loosen the skin and add butter – Sliding butter or oil under the skin lets it baste the meat from the inside as it melts.
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Roast at high heat first – Starting at 425°F browns the skin. Then reduce heat to gently finish cooking.
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Baste frequently – Using pan drippings to baste the turkey adds moisture to the meat and crisps the skin.
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Let rest before carving – Waiting 30-45 minutes allows juices to redistribute so they don’t spill out when carved.
Follow those guidelines and you’ll get incredible roast turkey without the hassle of brining!
Step-by-Step Guide to Roasting Turkey Without Brining
Here is an overview of my process for cooking turkey without brining:
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4 days before: Thaw turkey in the fridge if frozen
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3 days before: Remove giblets and neck, pat skin dry. Loosen skin from breast and rub butter underneath. Spread salt, pepper, and herb rub all over outside. Place turkey in roasting pan in the fridge.
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2 days before: Roast turkey uncovered in fridge to dry brine.
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1 hour before cooking: Remove turkey from fridge. Preheat oven to 425°F.
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Roasting time: Cook at 425°F for 30 minutes. Reduce to 350°F and roast approximately 15 minutes per pound, basting every 30 minutes.
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After roasting: Let rest 30-45 minutes before carving.
It’s that easy! With quality turkey and the right roasting techniques, you can skip the messy brining entirely.
Frequently Asked Questions About Roasting Turkey Without Brining
Here are answers to some common questions about cooking turkey without brining:
How long should I cook the turkey? Plan for 15 minutes per pound at 350°F. A 12 lb turkey takes around 2.5-3 hours.
Should I tent foil over it? Tenting foil prevents over-browning. But basting and rotating work too.
What’s the best roasting pan? Choose a pan with a rack that fits the turkey snugly. Nonstick or stainless steel work well.
How do I thaw turkey safely? Thaw in the fridge 1 day for every 4-5 lbs of turkey. Allow 3 days to thaw a 12 lb bird.
When can I carve the turkey? Let it rest at least 30 minutes before carving. This allows juices to redistribute so they don’t spill out.
How should I store leftovers? Refrigerate carved meat and other dishes separately within 2 hours. Turkey keeps 3-4 days refrigerated.
The Takeaway: You Don’t Need to Brine Turkey
While brining does guarantee a moist bird, with a few simple preparation steps you can absolutely cook delicious roast turkey without brining. A quality turkey, dry brining, and frequent basting will ensure tender and juicy results. Give it a try for your next holiday meal!
Start the oven hot, then lower the heat.
Our best turkey recipe is timed so that you go hard at the beginning to get some color on the skin, 450° for 30 minutes, and reduce the heat to 300° for 65–85 minutes to cook the bird through. Total cook time: just under 2 hours. This is for a 12–14-lb. turkey; the cook time will depend on how many pounds of turkey you’re working with. More on how long to cook a turkey, based on the size of your bird, here.
If you want the bird to cook even faster, consider a spatchcocked turkey rubbed with orange zest, aniseed, and fresh thyme leaves.
Choose the right pan.
If you only break out the ginormous roasting pan once a year, it may be time to part with it once and for all. The high walls of a roasting pan can block the circulation of hot air, resulting in an unevenly browned bird. Instead, roast the turkey on a sheet pan (lined with a wire rack) to give the entire exterior equal exposure to the heat. If the idea of a big heavy turkey on a rack without walls makes you nervous, then yes, you can use a regular roasting pan instead. But you’ll never know what you’re missing.
You’ll also want to pour a cup of water into the bottom of the baking sheet to prevent the drippings from reducing too much and causing a smoke show in your kitchen. Just avoid using too much water, which will steam your turkey and sog out the skin.