I’ve seen a lot of chicken coops and runs in Southern California because many of my friends and family eat chicken. Very few of the sets I’ve seen that didn’t have a floor of wood chips were better than the ones that did.
Consider keeping your chickens on a deep layer of wood chips or a similar bed of plant materials. Here is how and why.
The first reason is to soak up the manure. Sheep and hens both go to the bathroom at the same time. They do this during the day and while they sleep at night. It adds up fast.
If it’s not cleaned up fast, it stinks to high heaven. That’s no fun for us when we visit the birds, but think about them. They breathe that toxic air 24/7. The harsh ammonia gas injures their respiratory pathway tissues, reduces their growth, makes them susceptible to diseases, makes them less productive at laying eggs, damages their eyes, and all sorts of other nasty things. (See this paper and this paper for more on the effects of ammonia on chickens.)
So primarily it is for the health of the chickens that I keep a thick layer of wood chips on the floor of my coop and run. My rule is that I should be able to stand right inside and close my eyes and not even know there are chickens around because I can’t smell anything unpleasant. The wood chips, if kept thick enough, accomplish that.
I apply the chips at about a foot in depth at first and then later add some as they decompose in order to keep the layer at least six inches deep. Pile of wood chips next to my chicken pen and yard for additions when necessary
This aspect of the floor of wood chips is mysterious to me, yet it is undeniable that when chickens live on such a floor it begins to create food for them.
I’ve noticed that after a certain amount of time on the wood chips, I need to feed the birds less. For example, today my chickens have been living on a deep bed of wood chips in a new yard area that I created about a year ago (May 2023). At first, I needed to feed them a normal amount of “complete ration” of layer crumble, just as if they lived in a sterile chicken house. Around four months later, I noticed that they weren’t eating as much of the layer crumble as before. Around eight months later, I stopped buying bags of feed at all. Here, a year later, I give them zero such feed.
For months, I have been giving them only the usual kitchen and garden scraps, plus some sunflower seeds and wheat berries, and they look as healthy and act as happy as ever, and they are laying as many quality eggs as ever. My daughter sprinkles wheat berries across the chicken yard.
But how? I see them pecking and finding things to eat within the wood chips. I can’t always see what it is they’re finding, but the evidence says it satisfies them.
I came upon some studies from the 1940s and 1950s on chickens raised over similar “deep, old litter” that found similar results. One from 1949 by Kennard and Chamberlin done in Ohio found that chickens raised on a deep, old (at least six months old) litter bed could be fed less and still grow as well or better compared to chickens raised on a new bed and given a complete ration. (See Table 8 on page 14 in “The Use of Compost (Built-up) Litter in Chicken Houses.”) A fork of the wood-chip bedding in the chicken yard. What do the chickens see that we don’t?
The bed of wood chips decomposes with the help of the chickens’ manure and scratching until it can eventually be considered compost. This might take a few months, maybe a year, depending on the wood chips you begin with and the number of chickens and size of the area.
This resulting compost can be harvested and used in your vegetable garden, around fruit trees, as potting mix. I do all three with my chicken compost. Compost from my chicken coop and run, derived from mostly wood chips as the original ingredient.
This chicken compost has a couple advantages over pure chicken manure. First, it’s a more versatile product. You can’t grow vegetable seeds in pure chicken manure, but you sure can in chicken compost. My vegetable seedlings grown in compost from the chicken run on March 1, 2024.
Second, harvesting the compost takes less labor. Without wood chips, the manure must be cleaned out almost daily in order to prevent an unhealthy environment for the birds. With wood chips, you might have a chore once a week at most. From time to time you add more wood chips and you fork an area that is capped, and then you might harvest compost a few times each year. Roof removed from coop. This is where the chickens roost at night. Occasionally, I twist a fork in the wood chips there if I see capping.
Chicken health, reduction of feed costs, and gaining compost are the three main reasons that I have kept my chickens on a deep bed of wood chips for the past eight years, and many others have found the same benefits, and you might too. Unless you have one of these exceptional situations.
Mobile pen: I have kept chickens in a mobile pen and moved them daily so their floor is ever-new pasture. In Southern California, this is most practical during the winter and spring. New ground every day means the chickens have new food to eat and don’t leave too much poop in any one spot.
Massive run/yard: I have friends with a large flock but also with a very large pasture area for the flock to forage in. If the number of birds is small enough compared to the run area, then the chickens will not denude it and all will be well. Friends in Oregon with a very large pasture area for their flock.
But the run area must be massive (bigger than most people think is big enough) or else it soon turns into bare ground because the chickens eat almost every plant, and then the ground becomes toxic with their manure.
In all other cases that I have seen, a deep floor of wood chips is the way to go.
I was first clued in to using a deep bed of wood chips for my chickens by Joel Salatin in his classic book, Pastured Poultry Profits. (See page 260 if you have a copy. And if you raise chickens, you must have a copy.)
Harvey Ussery also has a good chapter (7) on his experience using “deep litter” in his excellent book, The Small-Scale Poultry Flock.
Hello, chicken owners! If you want to know what kind of wood chips for chicken run will keep your flock happy and your backyard from turning into a stinky mud pit, you’ve come to the right place. I’ll tell you about the best wood chips for your chicken run based on what I’ve learned from playing with my own chickens over the years. To give you a hint, not all wood chips are the same. Choosing the right one can make or break your setup. Let’s get right to the good stuff and help your girls live their best lives!
Why Wood Chips Matter for Your Chicken Run
Here’s why you’d want to use wood chips in the first place, before we get into the specifics of which ones to get. You know that bare dirt isn’t going to cut it when you see your chicken run turn into a swampy mess after it rains or when you smell the horrible ammonia smell from piled-up poop. Wood chips are like magic carpet for your hens—they soak up the mess, keep things clean, and give your birds something to scratch around in. Plus, they can help cut down on smells and even turn into compost in the future. If you choose the wrong kind, you could end up with moldy muck or chickens that aren’t happy. So, choosin’ wisely is key!.
The Best Kind of Wood Chips for Chicken Run: Hardwood Wins!
Alright, let’s cut to the chase. Hardwood wood chips are the best kind of wood chips for a chicken run. Oak, beech, and ash are good choices because they are strong, last a long time, and are safe for your flock. I’ve been using hardwood chips in my run for a long time, and I can say that they last much longer than anything else I’ve tried. Here’s why hardwood is where it’s at .
- Durability: Hardwood chips don’t break down into mush as quick as other options. They sit pretty on top of the ground, even through rain and rough weather, keepin’ your run from turnin’ into a sloppy disaster.
- Cleanliness: They create a nice barrier over mud or dirt, so your hens ain’t wadin’ through filth. Less mess on their feet means healthier birds.
- Comfort: Even though it’s called “hardwood,” it’s still soft enough for chickens to walk on and scratch through. It kinda mimics the jungle floor their ancestors loved.
- Low Risk: Unlike some other materials, hardwood chips usually don’t carry mold spores or harmful stuff, as long as they’re clean and untreated.
Now I ain’t sayin’ every hardwood chip out there is perfect. You gotta make sure they ain’t treated with chemicals or mixed with weird stuff. I always double-check with my supplier to keep things safe for my girls.
What to Avoid: Wood Chips That Ain’t Worth Your Time
Not all wood chips are gonna do your chicken run justice. Here’s a quick rundown of what I’ve learned to steer clear of, based on some trial and error in my own backyard:
- Softwood Chips (like Pine): These might seem cheap and easy to find, but they break down super fast into a soggy mess. Plus, some folks reckon the pine oils could irritate chickens’ respiratory systems. I tried pine once, and it was a nightmare to clean up after a wet spell.
- Bark Mulch: Bark looks nice in a garden, but it’s a no-go for chicken runs. It holds moisture like a sponge, gets moldy quick, and can harbor funky spores. Trust me, you don’t want your hens breathin’ that in.
- Treated or Painted Wood Chips: If the wood’s been treated with chemicals, painted, or stained, forget about it. That stuff can be toxic to your birds. I made the mistake of usin’ some leftover landscaping chips once, and I swear my hens looked off for a week.
- Cedar Chips: Cedar smells great to us, but the strong aroma and oils can mess with chickens’ sensitive lungs. I’ve heard horror stories from other keepers, so I ain’t takin’ that chance.
It’s been really helpful for me to stick with plain, untreated hardwood chips. If you’re not sure, just ask the person selling them what’s in the mix.
How to Use Wood Chips in Your Chicken Run Like a Pro
So, you’ve got your hardwood chips—now what? Layin’ ‘em down and keepin’ ‘em in good shape ain’t rocket science, but there’s a few tricks I’ve picked up to make sure they work their magic. Here’s how we do it at my place:
- Layer ‘Em Thick: Don’t skimp here. I start with a layer about a foot deep in the run. Yeah, it sounds like a lot, but it packs down over time. Keep it at least 6 inches deep after it settles to soak up all the poop and pee.
- Spread Evenly: Grab a rake and spread those chips out nice and even. You don’t want bare spots where mud can sneak through. I usually spend a good half hour makin’ sure every corner’s covered.
- No Fancy Underlay Needed: You can toss these chips right onto dirt or grass. I’ve never bothered with them plastic membranes or whatever, and it’s worked fine. Just make sure rainwater can drain away if your run’s on hard ground like paving.
- Add More as Needed: Over a few months, the chips start breakin’ down. When they get thin or stinky, I just dump another bag on top. Easy peasy.
Here’s a lil’ table I whipped up to show ya how much you might need, based on the size of your run. This is rough math from my own guesswork, so adjust as you see fit:
| Run Size (ft) | Area (sq ft) | Bags Needed (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| 5 x 5 | 25 | 2-3 bags |
| 9 x 9 | 81 | 8-10 bags |
| 12 x 12 | 144 | 14-16 bags |
Note: Assumin’ a bag covers about 10 sq ft at 2-3 inches deep. Check your bag size, ‘cause they vary.
Maintainin’ Your Wood Chips: Keepin’ Things Fresh
Layin’ down the chips is just the start. If you wanna keep your chicken run smellin’ decent and your hens healthy, you gotta put in a lil’ elbow grease. Here’s the maintenance routine I swear by:
- Rake ‘Em Regular: Every couple weeks, I grab a rake and flip the chips around. This keeps ‘em from gettin’ packed down and lets me break up any clumps. If it’s been rainy, I might do it more often to stop mud mixin’ in.
- Rinse Occasionally: Yeah, I know it sounds weird, but I sometimes hose down the chips with a gentle sprinkler attachment. It washes away dirt, and since hardwood chips are lighter than soil, they float back to the top, keepin’ things clean. Just don’t blast ‘em too hard or you’ll make a mess.
- Disinfect for Extra Clean: Once a month or so, I sprinkle some poultry-safe disinfectant over the chips. I mix it with water in a can and pour it on after the hens are tucked in for the night. It kills off germs and keeps funky smells at bay. You can also use a dry powder version if you don’t wanna deal with liquids.
- Refresh Yearly: Even the best hardwood chips don’t last forever. After about a year, I scoop out the old stuff—great for mulch in the garden, by the way—and lay down fresh chips. Before I add new ones, I scatter a bit of sanitizin’ powder on the ground to zap any lingerin’ nasties.
I’ll be real with ya—doin’ this stuff ain’t always fun, specially when it’s cold or wet out. But it beats scrapin’ poop off bare dirt every other day, hands down.
Bonus Perks of Usin’ Hardwood Chips in Your Run
Now, here’s where it gets cool. Usin’ the right wood chips ain’t just about keepin’ your run tidy—it comes with some sweet side benefits I didn’t even expect when I started. Check these out:
- Happy Hens, Less Feed Costs: My chickens love peckin’ through the chips for bugs and critters that show up as the wood breaks down. After a few months, I noticed they weren’t chowin’ down on as much store-bought feed. Now, I mostly just toss ‘em kitchen scraps and a few seeds, and they’re still layin’ eggs like champs.
- Compost Gold: Over time, them chips mix with chicken poop and turn into awesome compost. I scoop some out every now and then and use it on my veggie patch. It’s way better than straight manure ‘cause it ain’t as harsh on plants. My tomatoes have never looked better!
- Healthier Flock: Since switchin’ to hardwood chips, I’ve had way less issues with smelly ammonia or sick birds. The chips soak up the mess so my hens ain’t breathin’ in toxic fumes all day. It’s a game-changer for their lungs and overall vibe.
I gotta say, seein’ these perks unfold in my own setup made me a wood chip believer for life. It’s like a win-win-win for me, my chickens, and my garden.
Common Questions About Wood Chips for Chicken Runs
I reckon you might have a few “what ifs” floatin’ around in your head, so lemme tackle some stuff I’ve wondered about or heard from other folks raisin’ chickens.
- What if my run is super small? No worries. Even in a tiny space, hardwood chips work great. Just use a thinner layer if you’re tight on room, like 4-6 inches, and rake more often to keep it fresh. You’ll still get the benefits without overdoin’ it.
- Can I use chips in a raised coop with a wood floor? Hmm, I ain’t tried this myself, but I’d be cautious. Wood chips need moisture to break down proper, and that could rot a wooden floor over time. If your coop’s raised, maybe stick to chips just in the outside run and use somethin’ like sand inside. Or pull the floorboards if it’s safe and let ‘em hit dirt with chips on top.
- Do chickens need grit if the run’s all chips? Good question. My hens sometimes dig deep enough to hit dirt under the chips, which might give ‘em natural grit for digestion. I also let ‘em roam a bit outside the run now and then. If you’re worried, toss some store-bought grit on top of the chips once in a while. Better safe than sorry.
- What if I can’t find hardwood chips near me? If hardwood ain’t available, check for other untreated wood chips and ask around at local farms or garden centers. Worst case, you might hafta order online or settle for a mix, but always double-check it’s safe for chickens. I’ve had to hunt around a bit myself some years.
Where to Get Your Hardwood Wood Chips
Speakin’ of findin’ chips, let’s talk about sourcin’ ‘em. I usually hit up local garden centers or landscaping suppliers for bags of hardwood chips. They ain’t always labeled for chicken runs, so I just ask for untreated, plain hardwood stuff—oak or beech if they got it. Sometimes, tree trimmers or arborists in my area have free or cheap chips from jobs they’ve done, which is a steal if you can haul ‘em yourself. Just make sure it’s clean and not mixed with junk.
If you’re in a pinch, big hardware stores often carry bags too, though they might be pricier. Wherever you get ‘em, eyeball the chips if you can. You want decent-sized chunks, not sawdust, and avoid anything with sharp edges that could hurt your hens’ feet. I once got a batch that was more dust than chips, and it was a total waste of cash.
Things to Watch Out For
I ain’t gonna sugarcoat it—usin’ wood chips comes with a couple things to keep an eye on. First, if they get too wet and you don’t rake ‘em, they can compact and start smellin’ bad. I learned that the hard way durin’ a rainy spell when I slacked off. Second, make sure no predators can dig under your run if the chips are on bare ground. I’ve got wire buried around the edges of my setup to stop foxes or whatever from sneakin’ in.
Lastly, keep an eye on your chickens’ behavior. If they seem off—less active, sneezin’ a lot, or not layin’—check if the chips are causin’ dust or mold issues. It’s rare with good hardwood, but it can happen if they’re old or poor quality. Swap ‘em out quick if you spot trouble.
Wrappin’ It Up: Why Hardwood Chips Are My Go-To
So, there ya have it—when it comes to what kind of wood chips for chicken run, I’m all about them hardwood chips like oak or beech. They’re tough, keep the run clean, and come with perks like less feed costs and killer compost for my garden. I’ve been at this chicken game for a while, and switchin’ to hardwood was one of the best moves I made for my flock. Sure, you gotta rake ‘em and refresh ‘em now and then, but it beats dealin’ with a muddy, stinky mess any day.
If you’re new to this or thinkin’ of changin’ up your run, grab some untreated hardwood chips and give ‘em a go. Start thick, maintain regular, and watch how much happier your hens get. Got questions or weird setups you’re unsure about? Drop a comment or hit me up—I’m always down to chat chickens and swap tips. Let’s keep them birds cluckin’ with joy!
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Im Greg. My goal is to help you grow food at home, with a focus on vegetables and fruits — especially avocados — in Southern California. I write a new “Yard Post” every Friday.
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