When out on campaign, especially in what was known as a “full pace march,” Julius Caesar’s soldiers were expected to cook for themselves. (On slower marches, their accompanying servants or slaves cooked for them. ) Roman legionnaires and centurions didn’t benefit from any sort of mess hall. Quartermasters didn’t stock food; in large part, they were mere blacksmiths. And, nope, no chuck wagons.
Consequently, a Roman soldier lugged his own food, as well as the implements needed to cook it. The clibanus, which is also called the testum, was the most important of these. It was a small Dutch oven turned on its side and made of thick-walled clay. What we would call the top of the Dutch oven was the bottom “plate” of the clibanus, while the pot-like portion would be placed over it, like a dome, topped with fiery hot coals. The heat radiated down and cooked or baked what was in the cavity. Cato and Pliny recount many “sub testum” recipes. (Modern-day campers cook in a similar manner with cast-iron Dutch ovens. )More.
In time, and in order to roast small game or fowl, a heavy, glazed terracotta tile (what in Italian is called a mattone) replaced the hollow part of the clibanus and was designed to apply significant weight on the meat cooking under it, which by now was heated from below by a flame, as from a stove’s burner, or all-around within an oven. You can buy such a two-part, all-clay cooking set, with a mattone, in shops in Tuscany, especially in the coastal region around Lucca.
Thus, we inherit the recipe for “pollo al mattone,” or “chicken under a brick,” to my mind one of the more delicious ways to prepare a small three- to four-pound fryer.
To my mind (and taste buds), the greatest benefit to cooking a chicken this way is how the recipe renders the skin delectably crisp. Both the high heat and the weights above the meat putting downward pressure on it are to blame.
Chicken under a brick, also known as brick chicken or pollo al mattone, refers to a classic roasting technique where a whole chicken is cooked under the weight of a brick This simple yet ingenious method results in incredibly flavorful, juicy meat with an unbeatably crispy skin But where did this unusual name come from and why has this technique stood the test of time? Let’s unravel the mystery behind chicken under a brick.
A Practical Solution for Evenly Cooked Chicken
Chicken under a brick comes from simple Italian kitchens, where it was called pollo al mattone, which means “chicken under a brick.” The brick was useful because it helped flatten the chicken and cook it evenly.
Whole chickens tend to cook unevenly, with the thinner legs and wings cooking faster than the thicker breast. This can lead to dry, overcooked meat. Placing a weight, like a brick, on top of the chicken helps press it flat so it cooks more uniformly. The pressure also helps render out excess fat, keeping the meat juicy.
In the old days, bricks were readily available in open-hearth kitchens. Wrapped in parchment paper or cloth, they provided an easy solution for securing even contact between the chicken and fire or stove-top. The brick transformed an everyday ingredient into a perfectly cooked meal.
Maximizing Flavor Through Crisping the Skin
Even cooking is one of the best things about the brick method, but it also does another important job: it makes the skin perfectly crispy.
The pressure and flattening action help squeeze the fat from under the chicken skin. This allows the skin to cook up incredibly crispy. The brick also maximizes contact between the skin and the hot cooking surface, accelerating browning through the Maillard reaction.
The Maillard reaction, which occurs when proteins and sugars are heated, is responsible for the complex, savory flavors and aroma we associate with roasting. More contact equals more Maillard equals more flavor. The brick heroically crisps every last bit of skin.
From Cottage Kitchens to Haute Cuisine
Chicken under a brick traveled from humble Italian beginnings across Europe where it picked up regional influences. In France, it became known as poulet à la diable, or chicken cooked like the devil, referring to the brick’s role in producing incredible crisping.
The dish emigrated to the Americas with early settlers. American chefs later re-populatized brick chicken, often placing it on upscale French restaurant menus. Its popularity has steadily risen over recent decades.
Chicken under a brick used to be a simple dish made with a simple building material. Now it’s a star ingredient at backyard barbecues, on recipe blogs, and in restaurants. Yet it retains its signature simplicity in preparation.
Global Variations on a Theme
While the basic brick technique remains intact, cooks around the world have imparted their unique local touches. Italian versions feature herbs and garlic marinades plus lemon and wine. French poulet à la diable incorporates spicy peppers and mustard.
American chefs have expanded the possibilities even further. Barbecue sauce, spicy rubs and even teriyaki marinades have been successfully paired with brick chicken. It’s been cooked under everything from cast iron skillets to pizza stones in place of bricks. Oven roasting, grilling and skillet frying have all produced delicious renditions.
Yet no matter how far chicken under a brick travels, the iconic, flavor-enhancing brick remains its foundation. The name immediately conjures images of the perfect roast chicken.
Tips for Brick Chicken Success
If you want to experience chicken under a brick’s signature juicy meat and crackling crisp skin at home, follow these tips:
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Choose the right chicken – A 3-4 lb bird works best. Uniform in size is ideal for even cooking. You can also spatchcock the chicken by removing the backbone so it lays flatter.
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Season aggressively – The brick’s pressure means seasoning isn’t lost. Put a lot of salt, pepper, and spices on and under the skin. Go bold with chili or garlic flavors.
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Weight wisely – An actual brick wrapped in heavy foil works perfectly. But a cast iron skillet or other flat weight will also do the trick.
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Get sizzling – Use a hot surface like a grill or skillet. Medium high heat crisps the skin without burning.
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Monitor temperature – Cook until the thighs reach 165°F internally. Let rest before serving.
Following these fundamentals will reward you with the signature flavors and textures that have made chicken under a brick a time-honored favorite for generations.
The Satisfying Simplicity of Brick Chicken
In an era of increasingly complex recipes, chicken under a brick remains appealing because of its rustic simplicity. No special equipment needed – just a brick and a hot surface. The preparation requires minimal effort. Yet the results are consistently impressive and delicious.
There’s something deeply satisfying about a basic, honest recipe executed to perfection through smart technique. The brick delivers on its straightforward promise – evenly cooked, juicy meat and crispy skin every time. No wonder it’s become so beloved across cuisines.
So next time you cook a whole chicken, grab a brick and give this classic technique a try. Let the brick work its time-honored magic to deliver the ultimate roast chicken. Your tastebuds will thank you. When you take your first bite of tender, juicy meat paired with perfect crunch, you’ll quickly understand why it’s called chicken under a brick.
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Chicken under a brick (Pollo al mattone)
1 whole, small to medium chicken, 3-4 pounds, the cavity trimmed of excess fat
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil (not overly fruity or peppery), plus more for cooking
Juice and zest of 1 lemon, plus another lemon in wedges for serving
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary needles, finely minced (or 1 teaspoon dried, crushed in the palm)
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Chopped flat-leaf parsley for serving
Spatchcock the chicken: Rinse then pat dry the chicken and place it breast-side down on the cutting board, its neck turned away from you. With kitchen shears or a boning knife, cut along the backbone, tail to neck, tight along one side of the backbone, Repeat along the other side, discarding backbone. (If you wish, save the bone for making broth. ).
Flip the bird over breast-side up and press down with both hands, as if performing CPR, until you hear the breastbone crack. Flatten the whole thing as best you can and place it on a baking sheet lined with foil or parchment paper or in a non-reactive pan large enough to hold it but that also will fit in the refrigerator.
To make the marinade, put the olive oil, pepper flakes, rosemary, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add the juice and zest of one lemon.
Slather the marinade all over and under the spatchcocked chicken (even under some of the breast skin, if you like), cover it with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. If you’re up in the middle of the night, turn it over and re-cover it. Before cooking, bring it out of the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
To cook, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Warm 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy, oven-safe skillet big enough to hold the chicken flat, like a 12-inch cast iron or heavy aluminum pan. Take the chicken and shake off any pieces of garlic or lemon peel from the marinade and add the chicken to the skillet, skin-side down. So the name “chicken under a brick” comes from quickly putting something heavy on top of the chicken. Make sure the bottom of the heavy object is oiled or coated with cooking spray so it presses down on as much of the chicken’s surface as possible. Cook this way for 5 minutes.
Place the pan, the chicken and its weights in the oven and roast the chicken for 25 minutes. Remove the pan, pull off the weights, flip the chicken skin-side up, then replace the weights and roast for an additional 10-15 minutes or until a thermometer reads 150 degrees in the breast, or until the juices run clear at the thigh joint.
To serve: Let the chicken rest for 5-10 minutes on the cutting board. Carve the chicken into pieces, serving it with the pan juices, lemon wedges, and chopped parsley.
Several notes on cooking: You may choose not to marinate the chicken ahead of time; that’s often done in Italy when grilling the bird over coals. In that case, go easy on the black pepper which will simply char bitterly. You may use another herb than rosemary (although it is the most traditional), such as twice as much parsley, or the same amount of sage or summer savory, or half as much thyme or oregano. Shallots may substitute for the garlic; lime juice and zest or balsamic may sub for the lemon juice. Instead of olive oil, you may also use ghee or French-style clarified butter.
As for weights, many possibilities: Heavy housing bricks covered with a double thickness of heavy-duty aluminum foil; another cast iron or enameled iron pan, or a couple of small dumbbells or big rocks in a skillet. You may be lucky enough to own a true mattone or glazed clay weight made just for this purpose. Whatever you choose to use, it must be oven-proof (no encyclopedias). The weight(s) should add up to at least 10 pounds.
You also may cook the chicken on an open or flat grill surface, minding the temperature with an instant-read thermometer. Or entirely atop the stove in the heavy skillet. In any application of heat, however or wherever, the recipe calls for weights on the chicken while it cooks.
You may reach Bill St John at [email protected]
Carla Makes Brick Chicken in a Cast-Iron Skillet | Bon Appétit
FAQ
What is the meaning of chicken under a brick?
“Pollo al Mattone” (i. e. under-the-brick) is a traditional Italian way to cook. The bricks press down on the butterflied chicken, making it cook evenly and quickly, giving it a crispy skin and juicy meat.
Why do they call it brick chicken?
Back in ancient times, Roman soldiers had to cook for themselves. They invented a way to roast chicken under a clay dome. You can use a brick. Oct 7, 2020.
Is brick chicken healthy?
Known for its wholesome ingredients, this dish is a great source of protein and bursting with antioxidants from the fresh spices. While it’s indulgent and full of flavor, you can enjoy it guilt-free, as it’s grilled rather than fried.
What does Al Mattone chicken mean?
‘Al mattone’ actually means “with a brick”. Roasting chicken with a brick accomplishes two things; it presses the chicken flat into the pan making it moist and juicy with a golden skin.